Posts by jseabolt

    English version:


    I had my gearbox repaired due to a worn freewheel.


    [Blocked Image: http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd148/turbofiat/Trabant/IMG_20150401_180611505_zpskftatqog.jpg]


    4th gear now engages but when I shift into 3rd gear the transmission wants to grind. As if the syncronizer is worn. But there was nothing wrong with 3rd gear before I had the transmission repaired. If I pause and allow the engine speed to decrease I can shift without grinding. But if I pull back on the shifter with some effort while shifting into 3rd gear it doesn't grind. But I cannot shift from 4th to 3rd without grinding.


    I did not replace any of the clutch components.


    The man who repaired my gearbox said he was confident he put the gearbox back together properly and the problem was either a misliagned shifter or the clutch was not disengaging completely because the cable tension was out of adjustment. If the cable was out of adjustment then wouldn't the car also grind in 1st or reverse?


    I measured the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the base of the adjustment nut at 33mm (for reference purposes). I installed the nut back to 33mm. Clutch freeplay is at 20mm but the clutch disengages about halfway instead near the top when clutch pedal is depressed. I turned the adjustment nut a couple of turns and seems to have made some difference (less grinding) but I only have a few turns because I am out of adjustment and the threaded end will hit the starter.


    Even though I reset the adjustment nut back to 33mm, I wonder if because the cable has stretched, 33mm means nothing. I have a new cable but have not had a chance to install it yet.


    Here is what the cable adjustment looks like right now. It is almost at the ends of it's travel (almost no more adjustment). Does this look typical?


    [Blocked Image: http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd148/turbofiat/Trabant/IMG_20150420_053720545_zpsav55c2re.jpg]


    Can someone tell me if the shifter is misaligned if this would cause what I am seeing?


    Does the shifter position look OK in these gears?


    3rd gear (3:30 position):


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    4th gear (12:30 position):


    [Blocked Image: http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd148/turbofiat/Trabant/IMG_20150419_163406625_zpsoyzst7bh.jpg]



    Reverse:


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    I cannot find anywhere that the shifter could be causing this grinding.


    Can someone tell me if the ring that the "walking cane" goes through is supposed to fit tight within the loop or have some clearance? Once the shifter is clamped down there is no movement in the shifter. So far I have not found any method of measurements on how to adjust the shifter position!


    Also what distance should the end of the shifter be from the end support bracket when in reverse?


    I'm just wondering if the shifter need more adjustment or the problem is in the cable tension?


    If the clutch cable tension is the problem, could this cause grinding in 3rd gear but not 1st or reverse?


    Thanks.


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    übersetzte Version:


    Ich hatte mein Getriebe repariert aufgrund eines abgenutzten Freilauf.


    4. Gang jetzt greift aber wenn ich schalten Sie in den 3. Gang das Getriebe zu schleifen will. Als ob die syncronizer getragen wird. Aber es gab nichts falsch mit 3. Gang, bevor ich das Getriebe repariert. Wenn ich innehalten und die Motordrehzahl zu verringern, kann ich ohne Schleifen zu verlagern. Aber wenn ich zurück zu ziehen auf dem Schalthebel mit einiger Mühe beim Schalten in den 3. Gang es nicht schleifen. Aber ich kann nicht vom 4. in den 3. verschieben ohne Schleifen.


    Ich habe nicht ersetzen eine der Kupplungskomponenten.


    Der Mann, der mein Getriebe repariert, sagte er zuversichtlich, legte er das Getriebe wieder zusammen richtig, und das Problem war entweder ein misliagned Schalthebel oder die Kupplung nicht vollständig löst, weil die Seilspannung war nicht richtig eingestellt war. Wenn das Kabel wurde nicht richtig eingestellt, dann wäre nicht das Auto auch im ersten schleifen oder rückgängig zu machen?


    I gemessen der Abstand zwischen dem Ende der Gewindestange und dem Boden des Stellmutter am 33mm (für Referenzzwecke). Ich installierte die Mutter wieder auf 33mm. Clutch Freeplay ist bei 20mm, aber die Kupplung löst sich etwa in der Mitte statt der Nähe der Spitze, wenn das Kupplungspedal gedrückt wird. Ich drehte mich um die Stellmutter ein paar Drehungen und scheint eine gewisse Differenz (weniger Schleifen) gemacht haben, aber ich habe nur ein paar Umdrehungen, weil ich nicht richtig eingestellt und das Gewindeende wird die Starter getroffen.


    Auch wenn ich setzen Sie die Stellmutter wieder auf 33mm, frage ich mich, ob denn das Kabel gestreckt, 33mm bedeutet nichts. Ich habe ein neues Kabel, aber noch keine Gelegenheit, es noch zu installieren musste.


    Hier ist, was die Kabelanpassung sieht aus wie gerade jetzt. Es ist fast am Ende der es die Reise (fast nicht mehr Anpassung). Sieht das typisch?


    Kann mir jemand sagen, wenn der Schalthebel falsch ausgerichtet ist, wenn dies dazu führen, was ich sehe?


    Ist die Schaltposition OK Blick in diesen Gängen?


    3. Gang (3.30 Stellung):


    4. Gang (12.30 Uhr Position):


    Reverse:


    Ich kann nicht überall finden, daß Schalter könnte die Ursache dieses Schleifen.


    Kann mir jemand sagen, ob der Ring, der "walking cane" durchläuft soll innerhalb der Schleife eng zu passen oder etwas Spiel haben? Sobald der Schieber geklemmt unten gibt es keine Bewegung in dem Schalthebel. Bisher habe ich nicht gefunden, jede Methode der Messung, wie man die Schalterstellung anzupassen!


    Auch welche Distanz soll das Ende der Schalthebel vom Ende Stützwinkel, wenn umgekehrt sein?


    Ich frage mich nur, wenn der Schalthebel müssen stärker angepaßt werden oder das Problem ist in der Seilspannung?


    Wird die Kupplung Seilspannung ist das Problem, könnte dies Grund Schleifen im 3. Gang, aber nicht der 1. oder rückgängig zu machen?


    Danke.

    Ich habe beschlossen, einen Ersatz-Übertragung in meinem Trabant aufgrund der abgenutzten Freilaufvorrichtung montieren und reparieren meine anderen Übertragung.


    Ich habe, dass der Motor muss von der Sende abgeschraubt und entfernt werden. Dann werden die Federgabeln (Quer-) aus dem Motorträger, um entriegelt, um die Achsen aus dem Getriebe ziehen. Entfernen Sie dann die Übertragung.


    Ich würde gerne wissen, ob es einen Grund, warum der Motor und das Getriebe kann nicht zusammen mit einer Hebevorrichtung angehoben werden? Ich sehe keinen Grund, warum nicht beide gleichzeitig entfernt werden. Ich sehe nichts, was dies zu verhindern wäre.


    Ab jetzt habe ich den Motor vom Getriebe abgeschraubt aber ich bin nicht stark genug, um sie aus dem Motorraum zu heben, so werde ich meinen Motor Lift trotzdem verwenden zu müssen.


    Danke, James Sebold, Tennessee, USA. Ich hoffe, das macht Sinn (übersetzt mit Google Trans).


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    Engine and transmission removed together:


    I have decided to install a spare transmission in my Trabant due to the worn freewheel device and repair my other transmission.


    I have read that the engine must be unbolted from the transmission and removed first. Then the suspension forks (wishbone) unbolted from the engine cradle in order to pull the axles out of the transmission. Then remove the transmission.


    I would like to know if there is any reason why the engine and transmission cannot be lifted out together using a hoist? I see no reason why both cannot be removed at the same time. I see nothing that would prevent this.


    As of right now I have the engine unbolted from the transmission but I am not strong enough to lift it out of the engine compartment so I am going to have to use my engine lift anyway.


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    Gibt es einen Unterschied zwischen Hydrauliköl und Getriebeöl, auch wenn sie beide den gleichen Viskositätsgrad? Soweit wie sie die Operation des Freilaufs beeinflussen?


    Automatikgetriebeflüssigkeit hat in etwa die gleiche Viskosität wie 20 Gewichtsmotoröl . Aber auch, wenn ich versuchte, die dünner 0W20 bei kälterem Wetter Vergleich gerade 20 Gewichtsmotoröl sein sollte, hat mein Freilaufeinrichtung nicht, wie es überhaupt.
    Das macht keinen Sinn für mich!


    [Blocked Image: http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/images/Table_5_viscosity_comparison_chart.jpg]


    Ich gebe diesem AW ISO 68 versuchen, senken Sie die Leerlaufdrehzahl, und wenn ich habe immer noch Probleme wird die Swap-Getriebe.


    Es gibt etwa 150 Trabis in den USA, die in der Registrierung. Abgesehen von denen in Museen. Es gibt drei (eingetragene) im Bundesstaat Tennessee Ich kenne mit einer Bevölkerung von rund sieben Millionen Menschen. Und sie sind sehr selten!


    Überall wo ich hing Leute mich fragen, welche Art von Auto, das ich fahre, aber ich treffe auch Menschen, die ursprünglich aus Deutschland und anderen Ländern des ehemaligen Ostblocks, die erstaunt, dass es einen Trabant in Tennessee sind. Die meisten Deutschen, die ich treffen sagen, dass sie ursprünglich aus der DDR noch gute Erinnerungen an das Auto.


    Unten Dieser Mann besitzt einen lokalen deutschen Auto-Werkstatt. Er sagte mir, er verließ die DDR vor dem Fall der Berliner Mauer war auch im Jahr 1961 errichtet.


    [Blocked Image: http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd148/turbofiat/Trabant/2013-10-29_12-10-29_532_zpsbd531735.jpg]

    Achso, Du verwendest also eine 12-V-Drehstrom-Lichtmaschine mit einem 6-V-Regler.


    Am besten ist wie gesagt eine größere Riemenscheibe, um das Problem mit der Leerlaufdrehzahl zu lösen. Du brauchst dann wahrscheinlich noch einen längeren Keilriemen. Vielleicht paßt die 80-mm-Riemenscheibe der originalen Trabant-Gleichstrom-Lichtmaschine? Wie groß ist die jetzige Riemenscheibe?


    Es gibt auch noch die Möglichkeit, zwischen Regler und Erregerspule einen Widerstand zu schalten, aber dann reduziert sich die Leistungsfähigkeit der Lichtmaschine insgesamt (keine 60 A mehr).


    Die Riemenscheibe Größe ist 65mm. Ich glaube nicht, dass der Trabant-Generator-Riemenscheibe wird die AC Delco Lichtmaschine passen, aber ich kann mit größerem Durchmesser Riemenscheiben für diese Lichtmaschine zu bekommen.


    Ein Gedanke war der Umzug der Sensor-Draht, der die Lichtmaschine anweist, Spannung unter Last in die Ladesäule zu erhöhen. Dies wird jedoch den Zweck des Umwandelns des Autos von einem Generator mit einem Generator zu besiegen. Ich habe nie erwartet, dass diese Lichtmaschine, eine solche Belastung des Motors zu schaffen, als ich die Scheinwerfer an!


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    Nun will ich mal noch meinen Senf dazu beitragen, erst mal in deutsch, dann werde ich das mal von einem Übersetungsprogramm bearbeiten lassen, und einfügen.
    Ich habe beruflich als Inbetriebnahmeingenieur sehr häufig mit Ölen und Fetten der jetzigen Produktion zu tun.
    Das HLP 68 wird hier als Hydrauliköl und "Schmieröl" für die Lagerschmierung großer Gebläse verwendet. Das besondere an HLP 68 ist der Zinkanteil im Öl, den viele Anwender wegen Umweltverträglichkeit heute ablehnen. Genau dieser Zinkanteil ist es aber, der diese Öle für verschiedene Anwendungen notwendig macht, Den Einsatz von zinkfreien Ölen leht z.B der weltweit tätige Vetilatorhersteller ab. Öle welche für historische Fahrzeuge eingesetzt werden enthalten in der Regel Zinkanteile.
    Zwei Herstellerbezeichnungen für diesen Verwendungsfall Aral Vitam GX 68 (hab ich verwendet), CastrolHyspin AWH-M 68 .
    Nun die Übersetzung(bitte um Berichtigung, wenn was falsch ist)
    Now I want to contribute sometimes even my mustard to it, for the moment in in German, then I will allow to work on sometimes from a Übersetungsprogramm, and insert.


    Sie erwähnten, dass HLP 68 enthält Zinkverbindungen.


    Ich fand das MSDS auf dieser Mystik AW ISO 68 Hydrauliköl von Tractor Supply Store und es erwähnt Zink enthält, so ist es eine sichere Wette, das ist das gleiche Öl HLP 68.


    http://docs.mystiklubes.com/msds_pi/663383002.pdf


    Der_Ingenieur:


    Die Lichtmaschine I installiert ist ein typisches 12-Volt-AC Delco "Model 10-SI" auf GM-Fahrzeuge aus den 1970er Jahren durch die 1980er Jahre verwendet, außer mäßig mit einem 6-Volt-Regler. Ich weiß nicht, ob GM verwendet diese auf Opels oder einfach nur "westlichen Hemisphäre" gebaut GM-Fahrzeuge (Chevrolet, Pontiac).


    Eine allgemein "nachgerüstet" anstelle von Bosch, Lucas und 6-Volt-Generatoren, Traktoren etc. Zwar soll eine Fabrik Ersatz für GM-Fahrzeuge, sind sie


    http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml

    Du brauchst eine größere Riemenscheibe für Deine Lichtmaschine. Die abgegebene Spannung steigt proportional zur Drehzahl, d.h. die 6...7 V sollen erst bei einer Motordrehzahl von 600...700 Umdrehungen gerade erreicht werden und nicht schon früher, sonst wird der Motor stark abgebremst, wie Du festgestellt hast.


    Zum Freilauf: Je geringer der Drehzahlunterschied ist, desto leichter kann der Freilauf einrasten. Also anfangs den Motor abtouren lassen und bis 30...40 km/h ausrollen, danach funktioniert der Freilauf eigentlich wieder normal.
    Von Experimenten mit Diesel und ATF-Ölen würde ich abraten. HLP 68 ist am besten geeignet. Hochlegiertes Spezialöl erschwert die Synchronisierung, das wirkt sich also negativ auf das Schaltverhalten aus.


    Ich muss meine Lichtmaschine Scheibendurchmesser zu messen. Welche Größe Riemenscheibe auf den ursprünglichen 12-Volt-Wechselstromgeneratoren verwendet wurde?


    Ich glaube, dass die 12-Volt-Wechselstromgeneratoren Trabant waren 45 Ampere? Der, den ich bin mit einer 60 Amp-Modell. Also sollte ich erhöhen die Scheibendurchmesser auf der Grundlage dieser und vielleicht mit dem größten eine Verfügung, um diese GM Lichtmaschine passen gehen?


    Ich habe in der Vergangenheit festgestellt, dass, wenn der Freilauf nicht zu engagieren, da die Motordrehzahl abnimmt, der Freilauf wird mit einem Mal ein und können das ganze Auto zu spüren!

    Thanks Foliengriller. No problem. I realize using different oils is probably a long shot. I just wanted to make sure there was something I could try such as flushing out any sediment with diesel or I had the idle speed cranked up too high before assuming the device was shot.


    This car has 83,000 KM so assuming it has the original gearbox, then the freewheel has went 20,000 KM past it's life expectancy. I will give the HLP 68 a shot and see what happens. If it fails to engage with the correct oil, I will swap gearboxes and repair the other one. I am curious to see if the spare that came with the car is of any use and was not pulled from a scrape metal pile!


    Do these things freewheels fail all at once or do they fail progressively over time? Mine seemed to start giving me issues all at once back in 2013. I guess the Dextron III gave me an extra 3000 KM of extra time before it started giving me issues again? Does that sound typical?


    What about the idle speed issue I mentioned? if the idle speed was set past 1000 rpms, would that affect the freewheel's operation?

    Thanks guys!


    Can someone explain how this device works and what causes it not to engage when the gearbox is cold? I was told the reason the freilauf has trouble engaging with thicker oil and in cold weather is because the “clip” that holds everything together also acts as a spring and that piece becomes weak and the automatic transmission fluid is just allowing it to function easier due to less resistance. I know the surface of the drum can develop flat spots and the rollers can wear down.


    The device engages smoothly when it does engage.


    One odd thing. I tried OW20 synthetic motor oil and the freilauf did not like this oil at all! My theory was the oil would remain a 20 weight when cold intead of getting thicker when colder. But it’s odd than Mercon ATF is the same weight as SAE 20 but works much better. This I don’t understand.


    I understand this HLP 68 is a hydraulic oil and not a gear oil so maybe running the correct lubricant will simply fix the problem? Wishful thinking? I’ll give it a try now that I found it. I ordered new parts as well as the “cage” from TrabantWelt just in case. I might as well while I have the gearbox apart.


    I had plans on installing my spare gearbox (but have no idea if it’s any good) then tearing into my present gearbox and replacing the parts. I have a manual (in German) and the job doesn’t look too difficult. Just a matter of finding the time to do it.


    I was told the idle speed can affect the operation of the freilauf. So what does that have to do with anything?


    I replaced the original 220 watt 6 volt generator with a 6 volt GM alternator back in September just before it started getting cold and it’s odd that this problem seemed to reoccur afterwards. This alternator produces 60 amps, twice of what the original generator produced but has an unwanted side effect. When I turn the headlamps on, the alternator compensates for the voltage drop and the idle speed drops by 200 to 300 rpms! On a 100 HP engine you would probably never notice this but I suppose on a 28 HP engine it really produces allot of drag. I had to bump the idle speed up so that the engine would not stall when I turned the headlamps on.


    I did have some photos on my photo album but accidently hit the wrong button on my smartphone and deleted the directory. But here is an instructable I wrote:


    http://www.instructables.com/i…ternator-on-your-old-car/


    I did try driving around with the headlamps on to reduce the idle speed but it seems to make no difference in the operation of the freilauf. My plans to get around this is to wire in a relay so my headlamps turn on and off with the ignition switch (rather than just supply power from the ignition switch directly) and set the idle speed at 700 rpms so it’s consistent. That would also work well as daytime running lamps. Not required in the United States but a good idea.


    Another thing I wondered about was my driving habits. I was told I need to “ease into it” when going into 4th gear. I found if I shift into 4th gear and allow the RPMs to fall down to idle speed, let out on the clutch, then apply the accelerator softly, rather than applying the accelerator while letting out on the clutch at the same time (as if I am pulling out in 1st gear) allows the freewheel device to engage much easier for the first few kilometers until the device wants to engage.


    As far as the amount of oil in the gearbox is concerned. I did not think about this. Perhaps I could make note of the overfill bolt and see if it’s higher than the input shaft. If it’s higher than the input shaft, then that should answer my question concerning flooding the freilauf versus oil being forced into it while driving.


    HLP68 is used by farm machinery also in the USA. Often by german manufacturers.


    Tractor parts stores are a great place to find lubricants for oldtimer European cars when you can't find it from autopart stores!


    My Fiat 124 Spider requires a GL-1 90 gear oil which is also used in old Ford tractors. I've tried thinner oils to permit easier shifting in winter but the syncronizers do not like thinner oil for some reason (wants to grind).


    Here is what I believe to be the US equivilant to HLP 68.

    Hallo! This maybe my second post. My name is James Seabolt (Sebold) and I live in Eastern Tennessee USA. My Trabbi originally came from Hungary. I've owned it since September of 2012.


    My current question concerns the freewheel device and gearbox lubricants.


    I could not find this HLP 68 initially so I used SAE 30 engine oil. Which worked well even below freezing.


    In the summer of 2013, my freewheel device started giving me trouble engaging. I've heard of people using automatic transmission fluid which has the same viscosity grade of SAE 20. So I used Dextron III ATF. Immediately it fixed the problem until this past October when it started to get cold outside. Eventually 4th gear would not engage at all.


    I was about to replace it but based on some opinions decided to flush the gearbox with diesel fuel for about 10 KM. Immediately 4th gear started engaging again. After a couple of flushes, I finally got all the silver sludge out of the gearbox.


    I tried Ford Mercon ATF but still had to drive the car for about 3 KM before 4th gear would engage.


    I decided to try an experiment. I decided to overfill the gearbox just slightly with 1.5 liters of Ford Mercon ATF and 500 ml of diesel fuel. So far this seems to work well in cold weather (0 to 3 C).


    I have a theory. I'm wondering if "flooding" the freewheel device with oil will improve it's operation. My theory is 1.5 liters just "baths" the gears and oil is eventually forced into the freewheel device after 3 KM or so? But by overfilling the gearbox just slightly will cause oil to already be within the freewheel device.


    Or maybe by thinning the gearbox oil by 25% with diesel just made the lubricant thinner (example: viscosity grade of 30 or 40)?


    I finally found this HLP 68 lube from a tractor parts store. It goes under the name AW ISO 68th in the USA but have not tried it. I will wait until this spring when the weather warms up.


    No doubt the freewheel device is probably worn but is it "worn out"? My car has 83.000 KM but don't know the history of it.


    Once 4th gear starts engaging, it engages smoothly the rest of the day. But does not like anything thicker than automatic transmission fluid in cold weather.


    Anybody use different grades of gearbox oil between spring/summer and fall/winter to get around this problem?


    Since I saw an improvement after flushing the gearbox with diesel could the freewheel device still be "gunked up"?


    I was told not to give up on it until I made sure the inside of the gearbox was clean.


    Anybody know a safe mileage (kilometers) when doing a diesel fuel flush? I've just been going up the road and back for about 10 KM.


    Any options on gearbox lubricants appreciated!


    Thanks!


    Hello! Your English is much better than my German!


    The Hungarian unit I'm referring to is widely sold in Ebay.de and other IFA part suppliers. Here it is:


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    I have not determined if the crankshaft is out of sync or the advance mechansim is installed wrong (if possible). The first time I made my timing marks I made them wrong. So the next time I checked top dead center four times then 4mm BTDC four times then checked the other cylinder. I do not own a dial depth guage so I used a metal ruler like this one except in metric:


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    I placed the flat side of the piece that fits in the shirt pocket against the cylinder head and rotated the engine over and came up with 37mm, added 4mm the rotated the engine backwards, checked again (four times) then made my mark. The other cylinder measured 38mm so it's not out of phase too bad. Could be casting in the cylinder head. I figured as long as I was consistant I was OK.


    I installed the breaker plate (in the middle) and increased the engine speed to well over 1500 rpms to enagage the centrifical advance mechansim. Connected my timing light and checked both cylinders. The #1 was off so I retarded the breaker plate until I had no more adjustment but could not bring the marks within specs. So I shut the engine off and advanced the breaker plate all the way then reset the points gap and even closed them a bit to gain more retard. Reconnected my timing light to #1 cylinder and checked again. Then I had to retard the breaker plate so more! Then checked #2 cylinder but it was spot on so that set of points needed no adjusting. Finally I have the timing within specs.


    I'm not sure why the breaker plate needed to be adjusted twice to bring the timing marks together. I suspect the reason my electronic ignition will not work is because of the same reason. I was told just because the ring with magnets is "oblong" to match the cam lobe, the ring can be adjusted somewhat. I will try again.


    I am going to try again this weekend. What I would like to determine is a good stating point. Perhaps connect a test light across the #1 points and as soon as they open, make a set of temporary marks, then install the electronic system and try to match the second magnet on the ring that passes the "mole" on the circuit board together just enough to get the engine started.


    I really want to get this electronic system working because I believe the condensors are bad. I am seeing a lot of arcing across the #2 points and I believe this could be causing a misfire I am not feeling because the engine is a 2 stroke. Also I think this is effecting the engine speed at idle.


    I tried substituing a set of 6 volt condensors from a VW Type 1 but it caused worse arcing with new points! I'm not sure why.


    Here is a short video.


    http://s222.photobucket.com/us…_714_zps9b7a2d61.mp4.html

    Hello! My name is James Seabolt (Siebold) and I live in the USA (Tennessee). I own a 1981 Trabant 601 "S" I imported from Hungary about a year and a half ago. There are about 100 or so Trabbis on American roads, not counting ones in museums that our registry does not know about.


    http://trabantusa.com/


    My main car obsession for the past 20 years has been oldtimer Fiats (124 Spiders, X 1/9s, 131s, and Zastava Yugos). I have wanted a Trabant every since I first saw them on TV on the "Trabbi road" in Hungary during the 1989 Exodus from the DDR. I had to wait almost 20 years before the car was old enough to register in the United States due to our importation laws. Once a car becomes 30 years old, you can register anything. You can import anything, you just can't drive it on public roads until it becomes 30 years old. Although some newer models like 1.1s have made it past customs having their registration plates replaced with ones from older models.


    Owning a Trabant in the USA is quite challanging. Virtually all parts must be imported from Germany and if shipped DHL takes 2 to 4 weeks and is expensive! Also this car is unlike anything I've ever worked on. So I was hoping you guys don't mind if I ask questions in English from time to time to help me maintain my Trabant.


    As I mentioned,my car came from Hungary and seems to have had no maintience at all! The owner must have just replaced parts as they broke and never bothered to even degrease the engine!


    So far I have rebuilt the braking system and replaced most of the electrical connectors. I was having a problem with the 28 HB2 vergaser so I rebuilt a 28 H1-1 from a spare engine I had shipped over with the car and think I have it finally sorted out.


    My breaker points have a considerable amount of arcing so I think the condensors are bad. I did not order new ones because I have this Hungarian electronic system I bought from LDM but I am having issues getting it to work. I have it wired up correctly, the ring with magnets installed on the cam lobe correctly, both cylinders are getting spark but the engine won't start. There seems to be some timing issue with this engine. The reason I suspect this is after I made my 4mm BTDC marks on both cylinders, in order to bring the timing marks together with breaker points I have to rotate the breaker plate all the way counter-clockwise, close the points gap a bit more, then rotate it all the way counter-clockwise. While using a timing light with the RPMs set above 1500.


    Here is some photos of my car:


    http://s222.photobucket.com/user/turbofiat/library/#/user/turbofiat/library/Trabant?sort=6&page=0&_suid=138843977757905126841609630299